Shap to Kirkby Stephen - by Will Copestake - Coast to Coast. Day 7

 

 

Crossing the railway line, I left town to wind along farmyard walls into an open field. The roar of cars on the M6 motorway nearby rivalled the stiff wind in the trees. A small bridge spanned the busy traffic leading back into the countryside beyond.

The noise of the motorways was soon muted behind the hills to be replaced with the swish of wind across the open moors. The steaming chimneys from the nearby quarry tailed upward above Shap.

 

> Guided or Self Guided: How will you walk the Coast to Coast?

 

Hopping over a stile at Hardendale quarry I was blown along the dusty track toward the small community of Oddendale. Skirting the low walls at the edge of town I wandered along a large limestone pavement jutting from the grass. Somewhere nearby two concentric stone circles stood illusively hidden, they were the first of many interesting archaeological sites I would pass during the day.

 

 

Heading onto the moors

Despite the onset of curtained rain, which hammered against my side in the wind, I chose to linger and explore the deep fissures in the rock known as grikes. They form fascinating micro habitats with each crack filled with a unique array of ferns.

 

Limestone Grikes

As the limestone pavements petered out I returned to following a wide and well marked trail across a long heather moorland, there was a certain déjà-vu to the Scottish Rannoch Moor about the stretch. Focused on my feet to keep the rain from my face I found many a frog relishing the abundance of puddles.

 

The lone boulder on the Moor

Hidden in a cleft, a small cairn announced my arrival at 'Robin Hoods Grave.' Although almost certainly not the resting place of the man who's namesake is held to the walk, the hollow did provide a well needed shelter to sit down for a morning lunch.

 

The grave of Robin Hood

Another stretch of open peat hunched against driving rain brought me to a small lime kiln above Broadfell farm. Below I could make out the little community of Orton which as an optional extra to the Coast to Coast is described as one of the few 'lost' villages en-route. Sheltering inside the lime kiln I decided upon a quick check of the map to move onward toward Sunbiggin tarn instead.

 

Above Orton

 

Sheltering in the Lime Kiln

The trail took upon a new character entirely, the open moors suddenly replaced with walled fields and numerous stiles to cross. It was a welcome respite to shelter behind the wall stone walls as I marched with a squelch down the farm roads and through flocks of sheep hunched in the fields. Occasional points of interest kept the track interesting such as an old abandoned barn to clamber through and explore in the company of the local Barn owl. Yet another stone circle also appeared in a nearby field which prompted a very muddy detour.

Views in the rain

   Farm

Following the farm tracks

Leaving the fields back to the moors I ventured onto Sunbiggin tarn. An important bird sanctuary it was clearly signposted to stay on the tracks. Aside from a few intrepid curlews which soared past it seemed all the birds were hunkered down to shelter from the wind. Far in the distance I caught a glimpse of two familiar walkers on the horizon, I pushed the pace a little faster to re-join some friends on the road.

 

Sunbiggin Tarn

Locals past the tarn

Following from moor to walls again. Can you spot the people in the distance?

A tempting detour

Catching up Stephen and Suzanne at Severals Village Settlement we cheered in greeting before exploring the important archaeological site. Although there is little but a few furrows and grassy walls to be seen by the untrained eye it is supposedly one of the most important historical sites in Britain.

For us however it was the turning point to cross a large stone bridge and our final uphill before descending to Kirkby Stephen.

 

Caught up at last

Packhorse Bridge

Rising upon the far side of the hill the effort was lost to conversation while we chatted about our day so far. The end of the valley was dominated by Smardale Gill viaduct, in the foreground an interest feature known as 'The Giants Graves' tempted us to wander upon their true formation, it is thought the long mounds were prehistoric rabbit enclosures.

 

Looking up to the viaduct

As if in an instant the rain stopped, the clouds parted and a warm wave of sunshine washed over the hillside. A whole new day appeared to have begun, in the distance the brooding blue of the distant rain hung with wonderful contrast against the Pennines.

 

Waving goodbye to the storm

Following the walls on Smardale Fell

We soon found ourselves re-united with the Australians. As a small troop of friends we descended in the sunshine along the long limestone walls into Kirkby Stephen in the valley below. The sun started to dance across the fields with a warmth pouring through my damp jacket. Finding beauty in the small details I was fascinated to discover the entire all to which we strode was comprised of beautiful fossilised pipe worms, a reminder to limestones coastal origin.

 

Re-united on the way down

Looking down toward Kirkby Stephen

We swapped maps and booklets to navigate mostly on group consensus. Although for the others their approach to Kirkby Stephen marked the heart of the coast to coast and the (almost) half way mark, it was the end of the journey for me. It felt fitting to have started alone but descend with new found friends.

 

Friends from the road

 

Heading down a small road via a quick detour to pet a few friendly horses we aimed toward the distant church spires that marked the town. A small tunnel in the railway ahead marked the final kilometre before reaching town itself.

 

 

Crossing the final fields.

A gentle amble through the final few fields brought us into town. I dropped my packs at the friendly Jolly Farmers guest house before running along the street to catch up with the others.

 

Final Fields

Welcomed by the locals

The Jolly Farmers

Kirkby Stephen

After a quick explore of Kirkby Stephen we all settled into the Kings Arms pub for a final farewell pint. Reflecting over a cool ale I thought back to where I had come. It had been only seven days but so crammed with adventure, it felt like months, I had wandered atop tall cliffs above the sea, meandered through fields and pasture, scrambled across narrow ridge lines and even made a few friends along the way. As we rose our drinks in cheers there was just one thing to be sure, I would definitely be back for more. . .

 

At the end of the journey.

Wainwright’s Coast to Coast is one of the UK’s most popular long-distance walks and crosses northern England from west to east. With so many others, both walkers and cyclists, having completed the route before you, we wanted to share with you a selection of Coast to Coast reviews. This may help you get an idea of what to expect of this famous walk between the Irish Sea and North Sea.

Coast to Coast Reviews

"Thoroughly enjoyed the trip, we found every day brought new and interesting sights and experiences. The days of walking just flew by. Great B&B's and pubs all with friendly staff." - P. & H. Jackson, Kidman Park, SA

>> Learn more about the 15 day Coast to Coast walk

>> Learn more about the 15 Day guided walk along Wainwright's Coast to Coast

"Highlights getting to the top of the mountains and seeing the sights. John the guide was the best, very helpful, way beyond duty. Thanks for a great trip." - B. Gibbons, London, UK

"It was most difficult for an American to do the Coast to Coast in the year of Covid, quarantines, and testing. Despite these many hurdles I came and did the 17 day guided tour with no regrets. I had previously done the 15 day guided tour. The fact that I have come from Los Angeles to do this three times says all that needs to be said. I would recommend this to anyone who wants a challenging and interesting trek. One of the most important, if not the most important thing about the trip, is the great group of walkers encountered." - J. Wade, Glendale, USA  

"Just wanted to let you know the trip was awesome. Pete found the maps excellent, very detailed and the extra route choices and information very helpful. All of our accommodation was amazing, the food they provided was fantastic and they went out of their way to help. The length (we had two rest days ie 20 in all) was perfect for us, and made many 'faster' folk jealous. Everything went like clockwork, thanks again for your help." - R. & P. Clark, Australia  

"Overall this was a lovely walk and we would recommend to others. England is a lovely country for walking. Enjoyed the scenery, going through 3 national parks. The old English pubs we stayed in and the people we met along the way." - R. & R. Doyle, Nelson, New Zealand

"For two seventy-year-olds it was a challenging but a doable experience. Accommodations were great. Breakfast was one of the highlights of the day. Seeing the North Sea from the Yorkshire Moors was another highlight. The Sherpa Van was a reliable addition to the trip. Communication with Trina ensured our satisfaction with Sherpa." - B. Parslow, Vancouver, Canada

"… It was a full catalogue of enriching moments that allowed for two fine, gentle warm days at the start then 5 days of torrential rain whilst walking through Lakeland. That gave added edge to the challenges of scaling the high peaks and the experience of wading or leaping across swollen becks. Bogland is a wonderful word that really doesn't describe the glutinous, slimy, boot grabbing mud with its own special odour. Then with weather improving it was through the changing scenes of moorland towards the ultimate destination arrived at on a glorious sunny day. … " - B. Fowler, Claybrooke, UK

"Wonderful weather - 16 days of full sunshine - was this really England? Great people met along the way. Hospitality of the b&b owners and people in the pubs. They made us feel welcome. A great holiday overall - and a sense of accomplishment for walking across England!" - D. Goldfischer, Pennsylvania, USA

Why was 2022 a special year for Hadrian’s Wall?

Where were the 1900 celebrations taking place?

>> Head to our Definitive Guide to Hadrian's Wall 1900 for Walkers & Cyclists

 

What kind of events have been planned?

The year-long festival featured an impressive calendar of special events and activities, such as: spectacular re-enactments, archery and cavalry shows; digital art projections and illuminations; theatre and dance productions; short talks and book festivals; special themed exhibitions; and historic guided tours. There were also falconry displays, a bunting challenge, as well as a Roman Big Birthday Bash. All of these celebrations made it extra special to complete the path in 2022.

Who organised these events?

A number of partners came together to develop the lively ‘Hadrian’s Wall 1900’ programme. These include: local societies and interest groups; community and arts organisations; local authorities; visitor attractions and venues; as well as several individuals with a keen interest in Hadrian’s Wall. Our team can help you plan your Hadrian's Wall active holiday.

Who can participate?

The events were open to everyone and, although some ticketed, many were free to join and enjoy. The organisers hoped that ‘Hadrian’s Wall 1900’ would provide opportunities for everyone to find their connection to the World Heritage Site – whether it be Roman history, the natural environment, the region’s dark skies, the arts scene, cultural diversity and more. If you are considering to walk or cycle along the trail, there is a special interest for everyone.

Where can I get the Hadrian’s Wall Path passport?

If you book your Hadrian’s Wall walk with Walkers’ Britain you will receive the passport as part of your final documentation, maps and guidebook. Hikers who collect all seven stamps at the stamping stations found along the way are entitled to buy the achievers’ enamel badge and certificate at the end of their walk in Bowness-on-Solway (available at the King’s Arms pub and the Wallsend Guest House).

 

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Want to walk or cycle along the Hadrian's Wall? 

Choose from a wide range of walking and cycling trips, learn more in our Guide To Hadrian's Wall 1900 or talk to our team for tailored support with your planning. 

 

When planning your walking holiday along Wainwright's Coast to Coast, the first choice you'll probably face is whether to join a group or to go self guided. 

You've come to the right spot! Read on for the answers to some of the most frequently asked questions when planning for a Coast to Coast guided walk.  

What is it like to do a guided walk? Who will be my guide? And how do picnic lunches work? 

Q1 | What is the Coast to Coast Guided walk like? 

Without mentioning the stunning beauty of three of England’s national parks that you’ll be walking through (the Coast to Coast is one of the most popular trails in the whole of the UK), there is something about walking it in the company of a small group and the achievement of walking across England with a group of like-minded travellers. 
The laughs during the trip, the global friendships that are made, and the fact of knowing there’s always a helping hand on a difficult bit are unique to guided walking. 
Our guides walk a steady pace on this challenging trek, have a lot of knowledge of the route, and make sure the entire group happily gets to the next destination in the course of the afternoon.
And probably one of the aspects you’ll love the most is, whilst you enjoy a holiday of a lifetime, you don’t need to worry about anything during the trip, organising & leading it is our job ... And it’s a job we do well.  

Q2 | What will the group size be? 

Our guided Coast to Coast walking holidays are led by experienced leaders in small, international groups. Group sizes will vary from 6 to 12 walkers, which is the ideal group size for social interaction, the safety of the group and just right for some of the small villages we stay in. 
You’ll also enjoy the company of an expert guide who is with you from the evening of Day 1 in St Bees until the time your trip concludes when you dip your toes in the water at Robin Hood’s Bay.

Q3 | Who will lead the Coast to Coast holidays?

One of our highly trained and experienced walking guides will look after you during your Coast to Coast walk. Each of our carefully selected and licensed guides bring a personal aspect to the trip. They have experience in mountain/expedition guiding, adventuring and all things outdoors. Through their enthusiasm and knowledge you’ll get a very good insight in the flora, fauna and history of northern England. Your guide is on hand to ensure your holiday runs smoothly. 

Q4 | How do you lead the trip?

Most of our guides have walked the Coast to Coast well over 20 times and so can do it blindfolded. They can therefore focus on the group and tailor the trip to the group’s interests.  
On the first night in St Bees we head to a local pub for a welcome briefing. It’s a chance to meet your fellow travellers in a relaxed setting, talk about our expectations, and for our guide to make sure everyone’s gear is in order.  
When on the trip, usually at our lunch stop when everyone is together, our guide will brief you for the next day. There’ll be moments that you’ll be walking a bit further away from each other to then regroup for sections where route finding is complicated. The Coast to Coast trail isn’t a very well way marked route, so one of the main responsibilities of our leaders is to make sure everyone sticks to the path. 

--> Choose from guaranteed departures on our Coast to Coast guided walks

Q5 | I’ve heard about picnic lunches, how do they work?

Generally speaking it is not possible to stop at cafes or supermarkets along the route and you’ll therefore enjoy picnic lunches on most of the days. You have the option to buy these at a local corner shop or café before you start walking for the day. The other option you have is asking your guesthouse to prepare a packed lunch for you. 
You’ll then carry your lunch, along with your water (appr. 2L) and perhaps a thermos flask with coffee or tea, with you. Most accommodation have coffee and tea making facilities, so we always advice to bring a thermos flask.  

Q6 | Can I get water along the way?

It is hard to get water when you’re walking the Coast to Coast trail. There could be a friendly local farmer to approach in extreme situations, but on most days you should sufficiently fill up your bottles in the morning to get you through the day. 
Although it may seem crystal clear, drinking water from a local stream isn’t a very good idea because of the agriculture in the area. 

Q7 | What does a typical day on the Coast to Coast look like? 

Breakfast will usually be at 8am for a departure at 9am. The lodges and guesthouses that we stay at serve big breakfasts that will give you a good base for the day.  
We then usually have a morning break at around 11am for a thermos coffee or tea before making some good miles again. Depending on whether there are suitable places available, we’ll have a picnic lunch or we’ll stop in a local establishment. There’ll be an afternoon break before we arrive at our next destination usually not much later than 3pm. There are five days though on which we arrive between 5-6pm.  
In the evening you’re free to choose where you would like to have dinner or join your guide to a local restaurant or English pub. On one or two evenings, the options will be limited, so we usually book a table for the entire group.  

Q8 | Will all walkers be on the same level?

The Coast to Coast guided walks are graded 5, challenging, and involve up to 9 hours of walking a day. The terrain is mostly mountainous and there can be steep ascents and descents and boggy sections. So, all walkers in your group should be prepared with an excellent level of fitness, can easily carry a daypack weighing up to 8kg, and are comfortable in adverse weather conditions.  
On our guided trips, we walk a reasonable pace of around 4km/hr on the easier sections and around 3km/hr on the harder sections. This allows ample time for sightseeing, enjoying the scenery and listening to your guide’s stories. All walkers who join our guided walks are required to fill in a medical and fitness questionnaire before travel.  

Q9 | What happens if I injure myself?

Our leaders are first aid trained and carry a reasonable First Aid kit with them. What exactly happens when you injure yourself, all depends on the type of injury. For example, whether you can continue on safely or not. If need be, our guide can contact the mountain rescue, but this rarely happens.  
As travel insurance is compulsory on our trips, you will be covered for unforeseen circumstances, which hopefully won’t arise!

Q10 | What gear should I bring? 

-    Good sturdy footwear with ankle support
-    Walking poles are recommended and many people bring them

And in your daypack we advice you to bring:
-    A fleece or other warm clothing
-    Waterproofs
-    Lightweight sunglasses or sunhats
As it can sometimes be cold on higher sections, even on warm days, a fleece in your backpack will be useful. Remember that you’ll cool down quite quickly during breaks and the highest point we get to on the trip is around 820m. 
We provide you with a Pre-Departure document, which will help you prepare and also includes a full equipment list to tick off.

Walking in an organised group not your thing?

For those that like to travel with their own private group, our team has a lot of experience organising tailored departures. Such a trip will meet your group’s exact wishes, whether you’re a family, charity, group of friends or walking club. Just contact us to discuss your needs.

Self Guided options

Prefer self guided walking holidays? There's a whole range of options to choose from on our Coast to Coast routes, from the entire length to sections and everything between 15-18 days. 
 

 

The Bernese Oberland and Reichenbach Falls

This trip serves as a fantastic introduction to the delights of Swiss walking. The highlights include taking in the stunning villages of Grindelwald and Lauterbrunnen as well as trekking around the classic Alpine Peaks, Wetterhorn, Eiger, Mönch and Jungfrau.

The beauty of this tour is that it offers you a range of walks each day, often with differing grades and distances, so you can decide the nature of the walking. Whether it be a high mountain trek along a Bergweg mountain path, or a valley stroll on a Wanderweg lower level trail, there is something for everyone.

There are also lots of opportunities for utilizing the extensive mountain transport system to shorten walks, leaving you with plenty of time to enjoy some time sightseeing. The flower-strewn alpine meadows in summer around Wengen and Mürren and upon the Schynige-Platte walk are an unforgettable experience too.

Travel from June – September. Find out more about the trip.

 

 

Meiringen: Panoramas of the Swiss Alps

This is a 'centre based' self-guided walking tour in the small market town of Meiringen, filled with a selection of excellent day walks that are perfect at any time of the year. From the town, it is possible to set out each day in a different direction using the incredible network of cable cars, postbuses and mountain railways. 

There are over 300km of well-marked footpaths, which range from gentle strolls to high ridges and even glacier exploring! In spring you can follow the melting snows into meadows of glorious Alpine flowers. In summer the high ridges and rugged glacial scenery become accessible. In autumn the landscape is painted with a riot of colour as the first frosts come. 

The potential for walking is limitless. We are still finding wonderful new walks here! Thankfully, it remains unspoiled and very Swiss. The local people are welcoming, kind and hospitable.

Travel from May –  October. Find out more about the 5 day trip and 8 day trip.

 

The Alpine Pass Route

This walk follows the most impressive two-week section of a classic alpine walk, which embraces much of the best mountain scenery Switzerland has to offer. It is a route which will take you over many alpine passes; some a leisurely stroll, others a tougher proposition, but all offering their own spectacular rewards. 

A marvellous complement to the high land of peaks and passes are the park-like valleys with their thickly wooded hillsides and unspoilt farming villages, deep-blue lakes and picturesque flower-decked chalets. As well as crossing the Grosse Scheidegg and the Hohturli, there is also the incomparable Bernese Oberland region with its towering peaks, the Jungfrau, Mönch and Eiger. 

During your time, you are given three ‘free’ days where you can pursue optional walks, or take in other attractions such as the Jungfraujoch. This is a mountain journey full of attractions and we believe it is an impressive alternative to the Tour du Mont Blanc!

Travel from July – September. Find out more about the 14 day trip or our 8 day highlights trip.

Spring is a wonderful season with many Walkers' Britain holidays suitable to enjoy at this time of year. Often you're first on the trails at the start of season and with the popping up of flowers, birdsong and longer days we believe this is a beautiful time of year for walking or cycling holidays. The list of options is long, offering you plenty of choice in coastal routes, traditional English walks and cycling around the UK.

Start planning your UK spring hiking getaway now! 

"You can cut all the flowers but you cannot keep the Spring from coming."   - Pablo Neruda, Chilean poet-diplomat, politician & Nobel Prize winner 

>> To the Trip Finder

Traditional English Walking in Spring

Exploring the Cotswolds (8 days)

A delightful short walk through quintessential English landscapes and villages in the charming Cotswolds -- A week long walk in the picturesque Cotswolds of southern England.

Or opt for the 5-day version or walk the 12-day Cotswold Way

Coast to Coast: St Bees to Kirkby Stephen 

Follow the Coast to Coast Walk from St Bees to the historic villages and beautiful landscapes of the Yorkshire Dales in either eight or nine days. May has become a highly popular time of year to travel recently, so if you're thinking of travelling then, please contact our team to discuss your options.

Or find one of the other guided or self guided Coast to Coast trip options

The Dales Way 

Walk through the Pennines and Lake District in the Yorkshire Dales staying at inns and farmhouses dating from the 16th and 17th centuries.

Cumbrian Way: Crossing the Lake District 

Walk from Ulverston to Keswick in the English Lake District, with views across Lake Coniston and Derwentwater. Visit Langdale and Borrowdale two of the prettiest Lakeland valleys.

Coast to Coast Classic Guided Walk - 15 Days

Cover 190 odd miles and traverse 3 national parks with our guide on the classic Coast to Coast walk, enjoy magnificent scenery with rolling hills and charming little villages with cosy pubs. 

Or choose the 17-day guided option of Wainwright's Coast to Coast

Isle of Wight Coastal Walking

A beautiful walk circumnavigating the Isle of Wight. For those who prefer two wheels, check out the stunning Isle of Wight Cycle trip.

Scotland in Spring

West Highland Way 

Walk through the stunning Scottish Highlands from Loch Lomond to Ben Nevis on this iconic route in either eight or ten days. The first day you can depart on this trail coincides with the first day of spring; 21 March - isn't that a coincidence?

Great Glen Way 

Walk through the heart of the Scottish Highlands at your own pace on the 8-day The Great Glen Way or 5-day trip covering the Highlights of the Great Glen Way. Cyclists will enjoy taking in beautiful Scottish scenery from 24 March along the 5-day Great Glen Cycleway.

Lochs and Bens (cycling in Scotland) 

Cycle the picturesque Scottish Highlands along lochs and bens from 1 April to enjoy spring at its best.

Great British Coastal Walks for Spring

Coast to Coast: St Bees to Kirkby Stephen 

Follow the Coast to Coast Walk from St Bees to the historic villages and beautiful landscapes of the Yorkshire Dales.

Or find one of the other Coast to Coast trip options by bicycle or on foot

Cornwall: South West Coast Path

Walk England’s longest and, many would say, finest trail: the 630 miles long South West Peninsula Coastal Path from Poole to Minehead, of which almost half is in Cornwall. Daily departures from 1st of March. 

Isle of Wight Coastal Walking 

A beautiful walk circumnavigating the Isle of Wight.

Cycling in the UK

Lochs and Bens (cycling in Scotland) 

Cycle the picturesque Scottish Highlands.

               Or find all of our active holidays in Scotland

Cotswolds by Bike 

Cycle through the heart of England in the Cotswolds. Discover quaint stone built villages, ride across rolling hills between village pubs and old coaching inns.

               Or check out all active holidays in the Cotswolds

The Cyclist's Coast to Coast 

Cycle across England through the Lake District and over the Pennines to the North Sea along the popular C2C cycle path that was inspired by Wainwright's Coast to Coast path.

Or find all of our Coast to Coast holidays 

Hadrian's Cycleway

Prepare for great coastal and country scenery as you cross England by bike following close to the line of the Roman frontier during the reign of Emperor Hadrian (117-138AD).

Use the Advanced Trip Finder to find the right spring holiday for you, or if you like to speak to one of our travel experts for tailored advice request a callback or contact us by email or phone. 

North Yorkshire 

Cotswolds 

Guernsey 

South Downs 

Great Glen Way 

Hadrian’s Wall 

Quiz: Where in the UK should you travel this year?